Some stuff we like along the Cowboy Trail (road food)

We like Ian Tyson's Navajo Mug in Longview because they have great coffee, good goodies, music (Ian's), Alberta books, Alberta art, and one of my favourite things --western jewellery ... and a very clean bathroom. I never get tired of looking at Ian's very ornamental saddle in the entrance way. I'll have to take a picture next time. It's quite beautiful.


We mostly love Marv's Soda Shop in Black Diamond because ... well, you'll see. Fifties soda shop with food like you remember -- burgers made with meat, not filler ... good fries ... malts ... sundaes, banana splits, floats ... and the best damn milkshakes served in a glass with the other half in the stainless steel container. My personal favourite? Grilled bacon and cheese sandwich and a chocolate shake.


I also love the personal juke boxes at every booth and the crazy collection of old fashioned candy and stuff.

It's a true Alberta treasure!

Backroads to Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump - July 31, 2010

Saturday morning started with me looking out the window of our cabin at Stepping Stone and observing that the trees were "sparkling" and that there must have been rain. This observation was immediately followed by a "What's that white stuff?" Apparently there had been a thunderstorm accompanied by pea-sized hail and I slept thought it. Bob described it as "violent" and Jolaine said it sounded "like the end of the world". I am not as light a sleeper as I'd thought. Or ... wine helps.

With one of Kevin's stellar breakfasts under our belts, we headed out on the highway. Our goal was to get to Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump, but going the back roads as opposed to the straight-on paved road on Highway 785 from Pincher Creek. This route had us veer left at the Oldman Dam and follow a series of rural roads, mostly unpaved, through gently rolling ranch land. The cattle looked like tiny specks on the landscape and the Livingston Range seemed far in the distance.

We drove by fields that were carpeted with deep pink Locoweed, and other fields that were brilliant yellow with Canola.

We saw all sorts of different birds, like oriels, and wildflowers such as the Prairie Coneflower (or Mexican Hat).

We arrived at Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Buffalo Jump but because it was a long weekend, we had decided not to visit the Interpretive Centre. We had been there before, and quite honestly, Head-Smashed-In is such a spiritual place, it's best appreciated at quieter times. There's something so special about this place -- a feeling that you get as you stand at the top of the sandstone cliffs on the Eastern Slopes of the Porcupine Hills and look out toward the plains of Southern Alberta and feel the wind on your face. I can't find the right word for it besides "sacred". Besides Frank Slide, Head-Smashed-In Buffalo Jump is one of my favourite places in Alberta.

After a brief stop at the Buffalo Jump, we headed back toward the Crowsnest Pass. Along the way we passed a series of old buildings that were probably part old sheep camp (that the Sheep Camp Road is named after), and a vista that went from bright yellow canola to green pasture to vivid pink Locoweed. Notice the sound of the crazy wind that is a permanent part of life in the southwestern corner of Alberta.

Back on the highway ... and off for some pub grub at Pure Country Saloon (great steak sandwich) and a trip to the incredible Frank Slide Liquor Store to find some interesting beer discoveries.

Southern Alberta, Porcupine Hills, and Beaver Mines - August Long-Weekend, 2010

Our annual August long-weekend began as all visits "down south" should -- a night at the Bluebird Motel in Claresholm. Now, for anyone coming to Alberta for a visit, you can forget about the Banff Springs Hotel or Jasper Park Lodge. The Bluebird Motel is where it's at! This pristine little motel, painted spotless white with blue trim, has been a familiar sight on Highway 2 south of Calgary for ages, though few know what a gem it is. It's an incredibly clean and very cheap little place, with lovely well cared for grounds, but what really sets it apart are the theme rooms. Each theme room is like a little museum!

Last year we stayed in the Gene Autry room with a magical collection of cowboy memorabilia, especially Gene Autry stuff -- records, books, trading cards, pictures as well as other gems like pistols, spurs, halter, lasso, branding iron, spittoon, and barbed wire art. Not exactly standard motel decor!

This year we stayed in the Homestead Room and it was just as delightful. This room was full of antiques from the days when Alberta was being settled by homesteaders. A homesteading certificate was on the wall along with pictures from the time. Other collectibles included a set of bright red long-johns, a couple of chamber pots, a potbellied stove, carpet beater, and assorted kitchen knick-knacks from the time.

Across the back lane from the motel is a log barn with a couple of tombstones by the side. A pasture with two beautiful horses adds to the charm. A stay at the Bluebird is always a treat.

As a bit of a post-script (since I started writing this blog entry) ... When we were in Claresholm, we ate dinner on Friday and breakfast on Saturday at "Roy's Place", a fairly nondescript small-town restaurant. The food wasn't spectacular, but it certainly wasn't awful. The service was friendly and polite -- genuinely so, not that "Professionally Perky" that we've come to tolerate in most urban restaurants. I did write a nice review on it in Trip Advisor, and actually had a response from the owner. He wrote:
"Hi Carol: My name is Kieth, my wife & I own Roy's Place in Claresholm. We appreciate every bit of feed back we can. Thanks for your words, our staff checks these websites often, they get quite pumped up when they get positive feed back from customers. Hope to see you again & have a great summer!" Awww ... that's why I love small towns! So, if you're ever passing through Claresholm, stop in at Roy's Place. They're nice.

The following morning began with a back-track from Claresholm to Nanton where we cut across country to Highway 22 (The Cowboy Trail), exiting just south of Longview. Along the way we saw the original Old MacLeod Trail. This was the original north-south route from Fort Benton, Montana to Ford Edmonton, Alberta. I have to say that, when I got out of the car to take this picture, the smell of freshly cut grass was heavenly on a warm, sunny Alberta morning.

Also along this secondary road, of special interest to me, were horses -- a lovely herd of horses. And yes -- a foal. ♥

Besides the horses, there were cows. Don't get me wrong -- I love cows. But I have a theory that each cow possesses only one cell of the global/cosmic cow brain. When one moves, they all move. When one moos, they all moo. They are not known for independent thinking. What started as one cow staring at me evolved into a purposeful and orderly march toward me by the entire herd, until we had ... well, you'll see ...

... and then ...

... until ...

Throughout the prairies, there are many abandoned homes, barns, and schools -- sad reminders of dreams lost, communities forgotten, and the challenges of life on the prairies. One of these is the Muirhead School, closed in 1945. It stands now, surrounded by hay bales, and is now a home for many pigeons.

From Highway 22, we cut eastward toward the Porcupine Hills, following the creek that flows through the hills on its way to join the Oldman River. Fields were thick with clover, the smell in the air was amazing.

We passed another herd of horses ... and oh -- a couple of foals. There is nothing cuter than a foal. (Sorry, cats.)
Well, this old guy was pretty cute too. "The Odd Couple".

As you drive through the rolling hills, it's hard to imagine that huge ranches are tucked away in the folds of the hills. One sign at Lyndon Creek Road demonstrates the surprising number that there are.

Through a leisurely meandering along the range road / township road system, we eventually made our way to the well-named Skyline Road. This "road" is little more than one lane, unpaved and deeply rutted. The only "traffic" we met on our way were three horses and riders, with two dogs. From the top of Skyline Road, the view was breathtaking. It was a hazy day, but the vista was of Porcupine Hills, rolling ranchland, The Livingston Range, and the Rocky Mountains in the distance.

We eventually we made our way back to Highway 22 and on to Beaver Mines! What an amazing drive it was.

What will the next day bring for us?