Portland Walking Tours - Thursday, May 27 - Day 6

Otherwise known as the “What Was I Thinking? Tours”. You know how sometimes when you’re sitting around with a glass of wine, a credit card, and a computer, and something seems like a really good idea? Well that must have been the case when I booked us into TWO major walking tours in one day in Portland. Actually, let me clarify – I booked ME into two major walking tours. Bob was spared one of them.

And so we’ll begin:

THURSDAY MORNING, MAY 27, 2010:

The day began for me with a 3 – 4 hour walking tour called “Epicurean Excursion” – a visit to a sampling of some of the interesting food and beverage establishments in the Pearl District of downtown Portland. We started out a little past 10:00 with a shot of pure dark drinking chocolate mixed with a shot of cream at Cacao, located in the lobby of the lovely Heathman Hotel. It was deeee-licious. I would have enjoyed another tiny cup of that amazing chocolate yumminess!(Smacking my lips remembering it.)

Our next stop was in the Elephants Deli where I had what can only be described as the most delicious soup I’ve ever tasted. It’s quite famous (rightly so) and apparently the Deli had so many requests for the recipe that they did the unheard-of – they posted it on the internet. Elephant's Tomato Orange Soup

From there to another one of my favourite stops – the Pearl Bakery. This place was amazing! We did have a sampling of different breads and olive oil. There was chocolate bread that made my knees weak and … my, oh my … their croissants!! The place was absolutely huge. I was fascinated by the activity around us. What a treat. Well, except for the fact that I had to wear a hair-net. Sadly, I do not have a picture of that.

Other stops included Stumptown Coffee – step aside Starbucks. You got nothin’ compared to Stumptown – had a little coffee there. Very, very good.

We passed by Le Cordon Bleu, College of Culinary Arts, Portland. That’s where I want to go to school when I grow up. I was fascinated by the number of the College’s students, on their break, lined up against the side of the building smoking. They had the biggest standing ashtray I’ve ever seen. Wish I could have taken a picture of them and the ashtray but even I understand that it’s just not cool to take a picture of a bunch of people smoking.

We stopped by a shop called “In Good Taste”. It’s one of those stores where I could spend a lot of time and a lot of money – “cooking toys and food porn”. There was an area where cooking classes were given and we did some testing of different condiments and salts, like Truffle Salt ($$$). Interesting.

Then, off to The Tea Zone where we had several different teas. I have to say that while my tastes in other things are adventurous and fairly sophisticated, my taste in tea is … well, King Cole. Still, I appreciated the flavours, but … “Not my cup of tea.” (har har har)

Wouldn't you love to know what's in that time capsule? If it's beer from the brewery, I think it's going to be a little skunky by the time it's opened. 2056, eh? I think by then I'll no longer be so curious.

I must mention that, at this point, we’ve been walking for over two hours. We saw some lovely buildings, and interesting things. Still, I knew I was going to have to abandon the tour before the end so that I could meet Bob. But, one more stop …

Hot Lips Pizza: Hot Lips Pizza has a very unique business model – they are very Green, and believe in creating a sustainable business environment and using only what’s available locally. For example, while the climate in Oregon is pretty nice, things like tomatoes can’t be grown all year long, so they use other vegetables for a topping base on their pizzas. Hence, the pizza we had was Winter Squash Sauce, onions, locally produced brie, and parsley. It was interesting. I would eat it again, but not regularly. They also make their own soda, which was very refreshing and tasty.

At this point, I needed to say good-bye to my group and go off in search of Bob who was at Powell’s Books for the morning. Powell’s Books is the largest independent new and used bookstore in the world. It occupies a full city block, 68,000 square feet (1.6 acres) of retail space. It’s huge. That’s why, as I made my way there, I sort of regretted that Bob and I hadn’t agreed on a place to meet – just a vague time. I think my words to him as I got out of the taxi to begin my Culinary tour were “Don’t worry. I’ll find you.” And find him I did. Further proof that I have a team of very overworked guardian angels.

THURSDAY AFTERNOON, MAY 27, 2010

We didn’t have much time to go from the trendy Pearl District to the grungier district for the afternoon’s “Underground Portland Walking Tour” which began at Old Town Pizza. I should mention that 98% of the tour did not take place below ground (as the name sort of suggests) but instead refers to the dark and sinister side of Portland’s early days.

This tour was fascinating. Portland had quite a history during its early days as a thriving port. Sailors would come off ships after being out at sea for long periods of time, looking for a drink, a meal, and a woman … in no particular order. That part of Portland had a great many bars and brothels, even a floating brothel in the river (the original "Love Boat"?). Well, I guess the more things change, the more they remain the same – Portland still has a lot of pubs (and great beer) and also has the “distinction” of having more strip clubs per capita than any other city in the U.S., far outnumbering even L.A. or Vegas. Who knew?

Part of Portland’s checkered past comes as a result of the practice of Shanghaiing unsuspecting (drunk) sailors who, after a few drinks, would find themselves horribly hung-over, back at sea again, having been shanghaied (sold as slaves to work on ships). There is, under the city, an entire network of Shanghai Tunnels, mostly closed off now, where evil dealings took place.

Another part of the tour focused on Portland’s ethnic groups who lived in this part of Portland, mainly the Japanese and the Chinese. There is a beautiful garden, a monument to Portland’s Japanese citizens. There are writings and poems on the stones that were written pre and post the internment. Heartbreaking.

We passed a “thing” on the sidewalk. I honestly don’t know what to call it – it’s a multi-media interactive … thing. Ummm, it’s the Home of the 24 Hour Church of Elvis. But that’s not all. There’s much, much more. Pictures don’t do it justice.

I swear ... all the really interesting people live in Oregon.

And of course, there’s the world famous VooDoo Doughnuts. The line-up goes on forever, and their biggest seller is the Maple Bacon Donut. And you can get married there.

Portland has some fabulous old architecture as well. Slowly they’re beginning to salvage a lot of these old treasures.

After a brief walk underground, we surfaced at the (supposedly haunted) Old Town Pizza again. It was a great tour.

But our feet were beyond sore … they were throbbing after 7 hours of walking. And so, after a painful walk, we located a cab and at mach speed (as Portland cab drivers, who all appear to be Eastern European, like to drive), we headed back to the hotel for a very much appreciated seat and a beer.

The feet are no longer sore and the memories are wonderful. What a day!